Saturday, September 22, 2012

Comparisons


Over the past few weeks I have been reading World without End by Ken Follett. It is a historical fiction that takes place in medieval times, and as I have read it I have come across several similarities between medieval England and present-day Tanzania:

·    Male domination. In 14th century England, the man’s role was to provide income and to make all family decisions. The woman’s role was to raise children, cook, clean, and obey her husband (e.g. the women got the short end of the stick). Today, Tanzania is no different. It is rare to find an independent woman here and even rarer to find a man who will cook or clean. It is frowned upon by all members of society for a man to do domestic chores because it takes away from his masculinity. Men have control over all money matters, even if his wife produces her own income by selling crops. If she needs money to buy groceries, she must ask her husband to give it to her. There are also no female doctors here, which is interesting because one of the main characters in World without End is a female who aspires to be a doctor, but can’t because society won’t allow it.

·    Medical care provided by churches. Medieval churches served as hospitals for the sick and injured, and the “doctors” were priests and priors who, despite their training, had no understanding of the human body. For example, blood-letting and purging were used for decades before people realized these “treatments” only worsened conditions. Of course Tanzanian doctors don’t do these kinds of things, but most hospitals here are sponsored by churches. However, it is not uncommon for a Tanzanian doctor to refuse to tell a patient their diagnosis if it is a bad one. For example, here is a story I actually heard from an HIV+ woman: she went to the clinic to get tested for HIV because she had suspicions that she had contracted the disease. The first doctor she went to refused to test her because he didn’t want to break the bad news to her if she tested positive. She convinced the next doctor she saw to test her, but he only agreed because she claimed she would not ask him for the results. She returned to his office the day after her test and asked him for the results, and he refused to tell her her status. Although he would not tell her, she said, “I already know I have HIV,” and he said, “How do you know?” She replied, “I can see it in your eyes.” She was right. However, that was years ago and today this woman, Mama Betty, is living healthy and positively despite her HIV.

·    Modes of disease transmittance. Just like people believed the European black plague was transmitted through looking at someone who was infected, this is a myth about HIV transmittance in Tanzania as well. It is one of several in fact. Another myth is that it is spread through witchcraft, another common belief between Tanzania and medieval England. Witchcraft is believed to be at the root of many problems here, and I have even met Tanzanians with college educations who believe that witchcraft is real. I have also been informed that (just like in medieval times) “witches/wizards” may be hunted down and killed so they will stop casting spells (like the HIV spell?).

·    Illegal homosexuality. Not surprisingly, homosexuality was illegal in medieval England (although it was common among monks and nuns, according to Follett) and is illegal in Tanzania. The reason this does not surprise me is because, unfortunately, 50% of the population (women) still don’t have the rights they deserve, so it seems highly unlikely that a much smaller population of people who may be viewed as “unnatural” would have the rights they deserve. People here LOVE Obama. I have to wonder, do they love him because he’s black? or because of his support of gay marriage?

These are simply observations. I am not making any implications, although it does seem that some of these cultural ideals may serve as barriers for development.

 

Next week, I’m off to teach bio-intensive agriculture in the villages! (Bet you didn’t know I know how to farm! It’s amazing what you can learn in a few weeks…)

Saturday, September 15, 2012

"Safari" (Journey)


Last Saturday I went on a safari in Terengire National Park! I saw lots of elephants, zebras, wildebeest, impalas and warthogs, some lions, waterbucks, hornbills, ostriches, striped mongooses and monkeys, a couple of giraffes, a buffalo, and a cheetah. It was quite the African experience… it was like stepping into The Lion King!
 



I am adapting to Tanzanian life well, but Tanzanians will never adapt to me. Here I am known to the locals as “mzungu,” white person. Lots of people stare at our group of wazungu (+ Ayo!) walking around town, some people say hi as they pass, some target us as wealthy tourists/potential buyers, and some Tanzanians are so friendly that they approach us just to talk about where we’re from and what brings us to Arusha. The best part is the little kids who get so excited to see white people. They put on a huge smile and shout, “Wazungu! Wazungu!” Sometimes they even reach out to touch us as we walk by! ADORABLE! The other day a little girl said “Hello!” and grabbed my hand and started walking with me. My friend Sarah asked her, “Jina lako ni nani?” (What is your name) and she replied, in perfect English, “My name is Jackie.” haha! Kids in Tanzania start learning English in kindergarten, and by the time they enter high school their classes are all taught in English. That’s why my host sisters speak English so well!
 
 
The Tanzanian men are quite happy to see mzungu girls too, several have confessed their love for me and I even received a proposal from my taxi driver! I find the best response is, “I’m already married.”

A typical day here starts at my homestay, when I wake up to my host Mama saying, “Karibu Jenni, breakfast!” (Welcome to breakfast). So I eat my giant breakfast and get ready for the day, then start walking to meet the other students. Ayo lives a couple of houses down from me, but we live the farthest away. Then we meet Allie, Luke, and Sarah during the next 20 minutes of walking. Sometimes we take the dala dala from there to class, but we often walk another 30 minutes to class. Class varies every day, but usually starts with 2 hours of Swahili with my mwalimu wa Kiswahili (Swahili teacher) Godson. He’s very energetic, a great way to start the day! The rest of the day we have lectures on HIV, nutrition, sustainable agriculture, development, or we do a farming practical outside in the demo plots. So far, we’ve made a sack garden (literally a garden coming out of a sack), a compost pile, and a double dug bed. They involve a lot of manual labor, luckily the men of the group are eager to step in. Class ends around 5pm and we often walk from there to a nearby hotel to use the internet and grab a drink. From there I head home, have dinner, take my bucket bath when my maji moto (hot water) is ready, do some work (sometimes), and go to sleep! And that’s a day in the life of an African adventure!!

PS – Whoever said Africa is hot LIED! Arusha is quite cool, and I definitely did not pack enough sweatshirts and jackets. Oops!

Friday, September 7, 2012

"Karibu Arusha!" (Welcome to Arusha!)


Jambo from Tanzania!! This is the first time I’ve had a chance to post a blog this week because I don’t usually have access to internet, but I’m adapting well to life here in Africa! Let me give you a rundown on what things are like here:

Accommodation
I am currently living with my host family, which consists of my Mama Mary and Baba (father) and their three daughters: Eva (20), Rachel (17), and Dorcais (14). The girls speak great English, and they find it hilarious when I try to practice my Swahili with them! They also have lots of other family members who come around often. The house is simple but very nice, and it does have running water and electricity but the electricity goes out frequently. They treat me like a queen! I have my own room with a king-sized bed and they feed me VERY well…

Food
They make me a HUGE breakfast every morning (omelet, bread and peanut butter, tea, banana, oranges, all just for me!), and I have dinner every night with the girls. Dinner here doesn’t vary too much, it normally consists of rice or pasta with beans or a sauce with meat. They also serve fruit for dessert… no real desserts here!! I might lose 15 pounds!

Toilets
The GSC office and hotels have toilets like in America (although the flusher doesn’t always work…) but most homes, including mine, have toilets in the floor. It flushes, but there’s nothing to sit on! Yikes!

Bathing
As I said, my home has running water, but it has no hot running water. So instead of taking a cold shower (which would not be enjoyable because it is quite cool here) I take bucket-baths. My family provides me with a bucket of hot water to bathe myself in, perfect! Right? I gave up on using conditioner.

Transportation
To get from my home to the office, first I have to walk about 10 minutes to the “dala dala” stop. The dala dala is like a taxi van that can hold 17 people, but they stuff about 25 people into it. It’s very crowded, but very cheap! Guess how much it costs in total for me and the other four students to ride? A dala dala bill!! One dollar! hahaha I know everyone misses my word-play.

 
I’m going on my first Safari tomorrow, so I will update my blog soon! Kwaheri!