Sunday, November 25, 2012

"Nyumbani" (Home)


Per Mom’s request, this blog is about my home (when I’m not in the village) – Arusha.




The clocktower downtown
Arusha is a fairly modern city compared to the rest of Tanzania. The main roads are paved, a lot of houses have electricity and running water, and the population is (sort of) diverse. There are spots downtown that are sketchy, but there are also a lot of nice places to hang out! Walking down Sokoine Street, the main road through the downtown area, is the best way to get to know the city because it’s complete with everything from modern grocery stores to local markets where farmers sell their produce.
 
Sokoine Street
 



 

 
 
 
 
 
 
I live in Sakina, about a 30 minute walk from downtown. Sakina has a lot of small restaurants, bars, and specialty shops and contains several different neighborhoods. I frequently visit Sakina Supermarket which is a convenient 10 minute walk from my house. This supermarket is known for its bread, but I’m not sure why… it tastes just like all the other processed white bread loaves in the city! The neighborhood I live in is called Kibanda Maziwa which means “milk stand”. Apparently it used to be where people got their milk, but the milk stand no longer exists. There are a few shops in my neighborhood, a salon and barber shop, the Chemchem “grocery store” and a few convenience stores. It’s a beautiful neighborhood with lots of greenery; the roads aren’t too good for driving on though. My house is right next to a mosque and a church so when I’m not hearing the Muslim call to prayer I’m listening to the church choir. It’s nice background music, especially on Sundays when I’m stuck outside doing my laundry for the week!
 


The stream where some of the locals get water


 
The front of my beautiful home
 
 

Sunday, November 18, 2012

"Ukimwi" (AIDS)

For the past couple of weeks I have been in two different villages teaching rural Maasai about HIV and nutrition, and it’s been totally different from conducting agricultural training. Talking about sex can be awkward anyway, but when you’re talking to Maasai women who spit in disgust at the words used to describe our reproductive organs, the awkwardness gets taken up a few notches.

Sex is very taboo in Maasai culture. The advice sex-ed teachers give in America that “you aren’t ready for sex if you can’t talk with your partner about it” doesn’t fly here, because kids can’t even talk to their own parents about it. The problem is sex is so taboo that it’s silently killing millions of people each year in the form of AIDS. And it’s not just silent because people won’t talk about the dangers of unprotected sex, it’s also silent because people are afraid to know their HIV status (ignorance is bliss) and they’re afraid to ask their partners to use a condom… the embarrassment would be far worse than contracting HIV, right?

Unfortunately embarrassment isn’t the only thing keeping people from using condoms. This week our female trainees laughed when we mentioned condoms as a form of HIV prevention because their husbands would surely beat them if they requested to use one. The other two prevention methods we teach are abstinence and being faithful, but these suggestions were shot down too – they said they couldn’t deny their husbands sex and there’s no way their husbands are going to be faithful. The common denominator of all these responses is gender inequality, which has an impact in Africa that rivals even HIV.

We got a lot of weird questions from trainees these past couple of weeks. After Allie (my fellow volunteer) gave a lecture on gender equality this week as part of the HIV training, a male trainee asked her how she feels about a man “booking” his wife during her mother’s pregnancy, i.e. before she is even born. Apparently this happens sometimes in Maasai culture. We also got questions from the primary school children we taught like, “What is a vagina?” and “What if someone never goes through puberty?” Another child asked how many stomachs women have!

I think the most shocking thing I heard from the trainees during my time as an HIV trainer so far happened when I was talking to a class about the importance of getting tested for HIV. I always explain that knowing you are HIV+ is better than not knowing because then you can take precaution not to spread it to your loved ones and you can start treatment which will allow you to live a longer, healthier life. This week that statement was followed by lots of chitchat among the trainees, so I asked what they were saying. I was told they were all disagreeing with me, because they would rather die than live with HIV. Knowing the trainees felt this way made me think our training up to that point had been completely ignored, since our purpose is to not only lower HIV rates but to decrease the stigma that so often accompanies HIV. Although HIV is a terrible disease which will inevitably progress to AIDS, it is not a death sentence as is commonly believed here. Someone living with HIV who doesn’t take care of themselves may only live for two years after contracting the disease, but someone who takes ARVs and maintains a healthy lifestyle can live for 20+ years before developing AIDS. It’s incredible to me that this fact doesn’t make a difference to these people. Despite the knowledge we supplied them with they are still terrified of HIV because of the stigma and discrimination surrounding it.

Although my HIV trainings have been frustrating, they have not been without benefit. The other volunteers and I are all more determined than ever to find solutions to these problems. This coming week will be my last week camping in the village and then I will be in Arusha for the last three weeks of my program to complete my capstone project, which happens to concern the effectiveness of our HIV trainings.
 
Our classroom in Gilailumbwa